Road Trip: Visiting Todos Santos
Just inside Miguel’s, there is a framed New York Times article from 2002 in which the writer declares the restaurant’s chiles rellenos the best in all of Baja. That’s a bold statement, and one I’m not well-traveled enough to back up, although there is no doubt that the chiles rellenos are superb, particularly when stuffed with shrimp and scallops. Miguel’s (612-145-0733) is one of my favorite spots in Todos Santos—tasty traditional Mexican food, laid-back atmosphere, and conveniently located on the main road into town—and every time I drop by, I’m reminded that I should drive up from Cabo San Lucas a little more frequently.
No less an authority than the New York Times has declared Miguel’s chile rellenos the best in all of Baja.
Todos Santos is a pretty popular destination for visitors staying in Los Cabos. The legally designated pueblo mágico boasts a thriving arts scene, great shops and restaurants, and a lovely downtown area that showcases some beautiful old brick buildings that date to the town’s days as the sugarcane capital of Baja. It’s located about an hour north of Cabo San Lucas by car, and it draws tourists interested in sightseeing landmarks like the legendary Hotel California (612-145-0525), which was not the inspiration for the famous song by the Eagles but is a remarkable place nonetheless.
The hotel was instead founded in 1947 by a Chinese immigrant named Mr. Wong. Residents at the time may have snickered when he changed his name to the rather ridiculous Don Antonio Tabasco, but they almost certainly would have done so behind his back, since the Hotel California served the only cold beer in town. Today, the Hotel California is a popular boutique lodging that offers only eleven rooms and suites, all of which are individually decorated with original artwork and furnishings. The hotel is also home to one of the region’s finest restaurants, La Coronela, which features excellent if sometimes eclectic cuisine from Belgian chef Dany Lamote, and a lovely courtyard dining area. After lunch or dinner, belly up to the colorful bar and ask to try the house tequila.
It may not have inspired the Eagles’ song, but the Hotel California in Todos Santos is well worth a visit. Image: Hotel California
The coastal town also exercises a pull on Los Cabos locals, particularly surfers and those like me who are tired of scouring the book exchanges of San Lucas for something interesting to read. Our Land’s End paradise has been noticeably bereft of bookstores for a few years, and print starved locals trade treasures at the numerous bar, café and hotel based exchanges around town: Mar de Cortez, Cabo Lounge, Tanga Tanga, Cabo Coffee Company, Los Milagros, among others. Libreria El Tecolote (612-145-0295) in Todos Santos isn’t going to remind anyone of Barnes & Noble, but the downtown bookstore has a nice selection of books in both English and Spanish, as well as some great postcards featuring movie stars from the golden age of Mexican cinema. Books by local authors and books about Baja are specialties at El Tecolote, and complimentary Wi-Fi and strong coffees or espressos are also available.
Outside of Miguel’s and Libreria El Tecolote, my other favorite stop in Todos Santos is the Cultural Center (Centro Cultural Todosanteño). The former schoolhouse is filled with beautiful murals, tons of great old photos of early Todos Santos residents and the town as it was in bygone days, as well as historical artifacts like antique tools. Essentially, it’s the town’s de facto museum, and it should be a mandatory stop for first-time visitors. It’s the perfect place to spend an hour walking off lunch.
Looking for a good beach read? Try Libreria El Tecolote in downtown Todos Santos.
To get to Todos Santos, take Highway 19 from Cabo San Lucas. The road is now very nice although further improvements are currently being made just before you get to Todos Santos. By that I mean, you’ll be driving on dirt for a mile or so. The highway becomes Calle Degollado as you come into town. Miguel’s is on the right side of Degollado just before the street makes a right onto Calle Juarez, the main drag that is home to Hotel California, Libreria El Tecolote, and the Cultural Center. It’s certainly worth getting off the main drag and exploring the area around the town square, including the old church, the beautiful theater (Teatro Manuel Márquez de León), and lovely boutique lodgings like the Todos Santos Inn (612-145-0040).