A quaint, tranquil, quiet, relaxing small Mexican town, Todos Santos is another world, only one hour from Cabo San Lucas or La Paz. Todos Santos was officially designated a Pueblo Magico, or Magical Town on June 17, 2006, the official ceremony and appointment from the Tourism Secretary was held on October 23, 2006. The Annual Art Festival is usually held during the first part of February each year.
Todos Santos is nestled above a large huerta, or palm grove, on the Pacific coast, of Baja California Sur midway between Cabo San Lucas and La Paz, but it’s as different from both of these cities as they are from each other.
Founded in 1724, it was a remote, inaccessible outpost until the late 1800s when its vast aquifer was discovered. Sugarcane farmers rushed in and it grew into a booming agricultural community overnight.
Today, all kinds of tropical fruits and vegetables are grown in and around Todos Santos. Not only has it retained its colonial charm; it’s become a bi-cultural oasis—a tropical paradise with a diverse selection of art galleries, shops, a few boutique hotels and several astonishingly good restaurants. You won’t find mega-resorts or cruise ships here, and you won’t find Burger King or McDonald’s either.
Our Lady Pilar of La Paz church
in the downtown historic
district of Todos Santos.
Palo de arco branches, hand-woven into decorative fencing
Highway 19, which runs from La Paz to Cabo San Lucas and passes through Todos Santos, was built in 1986, about the time a pair of well-known artists from New Mexico—Charles Stewart and Ezio Columbo—moved to town. This duo played an integral part in perpetrating the American and Canadian artist migration to this tranquil Mexican town. The surfers came on their own, lured by tales of never-ending, pristine beaches and perfect waves—Endless Summer Baja style. Avid surfer-rocker Chris Isaak recorded a CD (Baja Sessions) here.
The Eagles supposedly sang about the town’s landmark hotel — the Hotel California — back in the ‘70s, but Don Henley vehemently denied any connection. That’s a shame. He should stop by next time he’s in Cabo San Lucas. Once he tours the grounds and samples the gourmet fare served in La Coronela Restaurant, I bet he’ll change his tune. Hotel California’s new owners John and Debbie Stewart have recreated this former eyesore into a one-of-a-kind, one-in-a million architectural, culinary and artistic masterpiece.
Photo on right: Hotel California, on Calle Juarez in downtown Todos Santos,as it looked in February 2005.
Remains of old sugar mill
Todos Santos Art Gallery
Boutique Santa Maria
Gabo Art Gallery
What is it about Todos Santos that makes it such a magnet for creativity? According to local painter and gallery owner, Michael Cope, "... the light has the same vortex energy as Santa Fe or the Bermuda Triangle. People talk about the muted colors of the desert. But when you’ve lived in it, and watched what the light creates, you begin to see in Technicolor." Author Jeanne Córdoba claims it’s the air, "which is infinitely lighter than the atmosphere in La Paz and seems to melt in your mouth like a fine Parisian pastry." She also maintains that the ground itself speaks in Todos Santos. And that time takes on an ethereal quality. Native Mexicans claim it’s in el corazón de la gente—the heart of the people. Others say that the erotic whisper of its tropical breezes attracts those who are "more curious about than afraid of nature’s harsh challenges and sensual pleasures."
Todos Santos, Baja California Sur, Mexico - A Pueblo Magico. This quaint, tranquil, quiet, relaxing historic small Mexican town, Todos Santos is another world, only one hour from Cabo San Lucas. Todos Santos Guide has art gallery listings, beach, hotel, restaurant and vacation travel information about this historic area of Baja California Sur, Mexico. www.todossantosguide.com.
