My Favorite Weekend: Todos Santos
Magic envelops this funky artists colony
By José Alberto Haro Romero and Ashley Alvarado – Los Cabos Magazine Issue #32, Spring 2013
There’s a saying in Baja: “Nothing bad ever happens in Todos Santos.” While locals may be referring to the sleepy town’s uncanny ability to avoid the effects of hurricanes, the statement holds true on many levels. The 18th-century mission town is a darling of surfers and artists, snowbirds and yogis. Its dusty streets juxtapose old-world charm and New Age thinking, creating a perfect weekend retreat just 45 miles north of Cabo San Lucas. Read on for our quick guide to this haven, tucked neatly in an arroyo between the Sierra de la Laguna Mountains and Pacific Ocean.
History Awaits
Journey into the heart of Todos Santos, and it’s like taking a step back in time. Or maybe we should call it a leap. All the way back to the 18th century. The Jesuits played a major role in the development of the Baja Peninsula, and Todos Santos is no exception. When the Jesuits arrived here—to the foothills of the Sierra de la Laguna—and discovered a freshwater source just more than a mile from the ocean, they established what would eventually become the peninsula’s sugarcane capital. Todos Santos and its sugar mills boomed throughout the 19th century and up until about the mid-1900s. That money fed the development of the town and its elegant architecture. Since then, the farmlands once dedicated to sugarcane have been made over and are now the source of much of the produce served in Cabo kitchens. Remnants of the earlier boom remains (you can check out the ruins of the sugar mills), as does much of the Jesuits’ infrastructure.
Todos Santos’ founding father—Father Jaime Bravo—established the Nuestra Señora de Pilar de la Paz mission in 1723. Visit the eponymous church, which was built in 1747 and has since been expanded, to see the statue of the Virgen de Pilar. The mission is located within the plaza, widely known as Todos Santos’ historic district. Here, you’ll also find restored brick and adobe homes that date to the 19th century or earlier as well as the Centro Cultural Néstor Agundez Martínez (Juárez at Obregón, 8 a.m.–5 p.m. Mon.–Fri., 9 a.m.–1 p.m. Sat.–Sun.), a former teachers college that contains a museum of Mexican artifacts and regional history, an art gallery, auditorium, and a 1930s mural that celebrates noble workers and a triumphant teacher. An early Charles Stewart hangs near the floor in the northeast corner of the gallery. Admission is free, but there is a donation box.
These Magic Moments
In 2006, national tourism officials named Todos Santos a “pueblo mágico” (or “magical village”). While the prestigious designation is usually reserved for colonial towns or cities with a plethora of historic buildings, Todos Santos earned the distinction because of its incredible beauty and cultural richness. The landscape is indeed gorgeous. This is a palm-fringed oasis perfectly situated between the Sierra de la Laguna and the Pacific Ocean, and its natural splendor mesmerizes.
Inside the walls of many Todos Santos buildings, you’re likely to find just as much gorgeousness thanks to a thriving artists community. Here, the artists have taken to calling themselves “makers” due to the variety of media they work. Art is everywhere. Visit the Charles Stewart Gallery and Studio at Centenario and Obregón to view the work of Smithsonian-catalogued artist Stewart, who moved to Todos Santos in the 1980s. México City-born Beto Ortega (www.sculpturemexi co.com) is a celebrated sculptor who has exhibited his work throughout México and has called Todos Santos home since 2008. Stop by his workshop to see his St. Joseph piece for the Grotto at Iglesia Nuestra Señora del Pilar and other recent works (also pictured on his website). The Galería de Todos Santos (www.galeriadetodossantos.com) near the corner of Obregón and Juárez features fine art works by Michael Cope, Erick Ochoa, and Rafael Chavez. The eponymous Jill Logan Galería features the work of its owner. Go to www.todossan tosguide.com/galleries/index.html for a more complete list of galleries.
Bon Appétit
Todos Santos may be sleepy, but it sure has an appetite. Satiate it at any of the town’s fantastic restaurants. Tough as it may be (and it is, we assure you), we’ve narrowed our favorites to a short list of can’t-miss eateries. Caffé Todos Santos (612-145-0300) is a must for breakfast. This is prime people-watching territory; international and local artists favor it, and we know why. The coffee and cinnamon buns are delish. Bread is made on-site, and the café’s omelet with fruit plate, potatoes with green peppers, and a basket of bread are out of this world. The Galería de Todos Santos not only houses some of the best art in town, but it is also home to Michael Cope’s restaurant, Michael’s at the Gallery (call 612-145-0500 for hours). Travel + Leisure calls Café Santa Fé (www.cafesantafetodossan tos.com) “simply the best,” and we have to agree. Stop in for authentic Italian flavors in a building that dates to 1850.
Sweet Escape
For a true taste of México, head to one of Todos Santos’ candy stores (there are several) to sample some traditional confections, perhaps jamoncillos (Mexican fudge), cocadas (coconut cookies), or mango or pitahaya jelly. Sit down on a bench in the plaza to enjoy a waffle cone from Nevería Rocco. You can also take in views of the restored Teatro Márquez de León, an elaborately painted theater that is home to many cultural events, including the annual Festival de Cine Todos Santos.
Sleep Inn
A recent L.A. Times piece lamented Todos Santos’ growing size, but we can assure you the town’s population is hardly booming; most estimates put it at 5,000 to 7,000, depending on the time of year. And most hotels are built to scale. You’d be hard-pressed to find lodgings with more than 15 rooms. That said, we have our favorites, namely Guaycura (www.guaycura .com.mx). This boutique hotel and spa is much like the town itself: Lush accommodations are set against a lovely backdrop and enhanced by detailed touches, little tributes to México’s history and culture. And the sky deck—which features a pool, bar, and lounge—boasts the best views in the village.
This Could Be Heaven
No, no, we have not forgotten. No trip to Todos Santos would be complete without the requisite visit to Hotel California (www.hotelcaliforniabaja.com). The landmark spot has a killer kitchen (retreat here for dinner and drinks) and an even better souvenir shop. The jury’s out on whether this is the Hotel California, but there’s no question it is a must-visit.
Getting Here
Last year’s G-20 summit didn’t just usher in the arrival of this planet’s most important leaders; it also ushered in the most meaningful upgrade to the state’s infrastructure in years, seriously improving the highways and significantly cutting the travel time from Los Cabos to Todos Santos. If making the trip, you could hop a bus north, but renting a car is frankly a lot more fun. Fantastic Pacific-side beaches dot the highway; there’s little-known Playa Desaladora about 10 miles north of Cabo, which is one of the best spots for whale watching, and the surfers-favored Cerritos Beach. Plus, there are several spots where you can stop for small doses of culture. We like the roadside Blankets Factory, where you can watch as people weave designs ranging from modern to Mayan.
Here, we’ve collected a list of Los Cabos-area rental car agencies. Don’t forget Mexican car insurance.
Budget*: (800) 801-0365 from the United States, (800) 002- 8343 from México, www.budgetloscabos.com Cactus Rent A Car*: (866) 225-9220 from the United States, (800) 821-7977 from México, www.cactuscar.com. National Car Rental*: (877) 567-3572 from the United States, (800) 716-6625 from México, www.nationalcar.com.mx Payless Car Rental*: (624) 143-5222 from México, www.paylesscsl.com. *Participates in Los Cabos Magazine’s prepaid voucher program. Go to www.loscabosguide.com/discount.htm for discounts of up to 50 percent.
