{"id":1042,"date":"2013-04-24T11:59:21","date_gmt":"2013-04-24T17:59:21","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.loscabosguide.com\/blog\/?p=1042"},"modified":"2013-04-24T12:10:01","modified_gmt":"2013-04-24T18:10:01","slug":"my-favorite-weekend-todos-santos","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.loscabosguide.com\/blog\/2013\/04\/my-favorite-weekend-todos-santos\/","title":{"rendered":"My Favorite Weekend: Todos Santos"},"content":{"rendered":"

Magic envelops this funky artists colony<\/strong><\/strong><\/p>\n

By Jos\u00e9 Alberto Haro Romero and Ashley Alvarado – Los Cabos Magazine Issue #32, Spring 2013<\/p>\n

There\u2019s a saying in Baja: \u201cNothing bad ever happens in Todos Santos.\u201d While locals may be referring to the sleepy town\u2019s uncanny ability to avoid the effects of hurricanes, the statement holds true on many levels. The 18th-century mission town is a darling of surfers and artists, snowbirds and yogis. Its dusty streets juxtapose old-world charm and New Age thinking, creating a perfect weekend retreat just 45 miles north of Cabo San Lucas. Read on for our quick guide to this haven, tucked neatly in an arroyo between the Sierra de la Laguna Mountains and Pacific Ocean.<\/p>\n

History Awaits<\/strong><\/p>\n

Journey into the heart of Todos Santos, and it\u2019s like taking a step back in time. Or maybe we should call it a leap. All the way back to the 18th century. The Jesuits played a major role in the development of the Baja Peninsula, and Todos Santos is no exception. When the Jesuits arrived here\u2014to the foothills of the Sierra de la Laguna\u2014and discovered a freshwater source just more than a mile from the ocean, they established what would eventually become the peninsula\u2019s sugarcane capital. Todos Santos and its sugar mills boomed throughout the 19th century and up until about the mid-1900s. That money fed the development of the town and its elegant architecture. Since then, the farmlands once dedicated to sugarcane have been made over and are now the source of much of the produce served in Cabo kitchens. Remnants of the earlier boom remains (you can check out the ruins of the sugar mills), as does much of the Jesuits\u2019 infrastructure.<\/p>\n

Todos Santos\u2019 founding father\u2014Father Jaime Bravo\u2014established the Nuestra Se\u00f1ora de Pilar de la Paz mission in 1723. Visit the eponymous church, which was built in 1747 and has since been expanded, to see the statue of the Virgen de Pilar. The mission is located within the plaza, widely known as Todos Santos\u2019 historic district. Here, you\u2019ll also find restored brick and adobe homes that date to the 19th century or earlier as well as the Centro Cultural N\u00e9stor Agundez Mart\u00ednez (Ju\u00e1rez at Obreg\u00f3n, 8 a.m.\u20135 p.m. Mon.\u2013Fri., 9 a.m.\u20131 p.m. Sat.\u2013Sun.), a former teachers college that contains a museum of Mexican artifacts and regional history, an art gallery, auditorium, and a 1930s mural that celebrates noble workers and a triumphant teacher. An early Charles Stewart hangs near the floor in the northeast corner of the gallery. Admission is free, but there is a donation box.<\/p>\n

These Magic Moments<\/strong>
\nIn 2006, national tourism officials named Todos Santos a \u201cpueblo m\u00e1gico\u201d (or \u201cmagical village\u201d). While the prestigious designation is usually reserved for colonial towns or cities with a plethora of historic buildings, Todos Santos earned the distinction because of its incredible beauty and cultural richness. The landscape is indeed gorgeous. This is a palm-fringed oasis perfectly situated between the Sierra de la Laguna and the Pacific Ocean, and its natural splendor mesmerizes.<\/p>\n

Inside the walls of many Todos Santos buildings, you\u2019re likely to find just as much gorgeousness thanks to a thriving artists community. Here, the artists have taken to calling themselves \u201cmakers\u201d due to the variety of media they work. Art is everywhere. Visit the Charles Stewart Gallery and Studio at Centenario and Obreg\u00f3n to view the work of Smithsonian-catalogued artist Stewart, who moved to Todos Santos in the 1980s. M\u00e9xico City-born Beto Ortega (www.sculpturemexi co.com) is a celebrated sculptor who has exhibited his work throughout M\u00e9xico and has called Todos Santos home since 2008. Stop by his workshop to see his St. Joseph piece for the Grotto at Iglesia Nuestra Se\u00f1ora del Pilar and other recent works (also pictured on his website). The Galer\u00eda de Todos Santos (www.galeriadetodossantos.com) near the corner of Obreg\u00f3n and Ju\u00e1rez features fine art works by Michael Cope, Erick Ochoa, and Rafael Chavez. The eponymous Jill Logan Galer\u00eda features the work of its owner. Go to www.todossan tosguide.com\/galleries\/index.html for a more complete list of galleries.<\/p>\n

Bon App\u00e9tit<\/strong>
\nTodos Santos may be sleepy, but it sure has an appetite. Satiate it at any of the town\u2019s fantastic restaurants. Tough as it may be (and it is, we assure you), we\u2019ve narrowed our favorites to a short list of can\u2019t-miss eateries. Caff\u00e9 Todos Santos (612-145-0300) is a must for breakfast. This is prime people-watching territory; international and local artists favor it, and we know why. The coffee and cinnamon buns are delish. Bread is made on-site, and the caf\u00e9\u2019s omelet with fruit plate, potatoes with green peppers, and a basket of bread are out of this world. The Galer\u00eda de Todos Santos not only houses some of the best art in town, but it is also home to Michael Cope\u2019s restaurant, Michael\u2019s at the Gallery (call 612-145-0500 for hours). \u00ad Travel + Leisure calls Caf\u00e9 Santa F\u00e9 (www.cafesantafetodossan tos.com) \u201csimply the best,\u201d and we have to agree. Stop in for authentic Italian flavors in a building that dates to 1850.<\/p>\n

Sweet Escape<\/strong>
\nFor a true taste of M\u00e9xico, head to one of Todos Santos\u2019 candy stores (there are several) to sample some traditional confections, perhaps jamoncillos (Mexican fudge), cocadas (coconut cookies), or mango or pitahaya jelly. Sit down on a bench in the plaza to enjoy a waffle cone from Never\u00eda Rocco. You can also take in views of the restored Teatro M\u00e1rquez de Le\u00f3n, an elaborately painted theater that is home to many cultural events, including the annual Festival de Cine Todos Santos.<\/p>\n

Sleep Inn<\/strong>
\nA recent L.A. Times piece lamented Todos Santos\u2019 growing size, but we can assure you the town\u2019s population is hardly booming; most estimates put it at 5,000 to 7,000, depending on the time of year. And most hotels are built to scale. You\u2019d be hard-pressed to find lodgings with more than 15 rooms. That said, we have our favorites, namely Guaycura<\/a> (www.guaycura .com.mx). This boutique hotel and spa is much like the town itself: Lush accommodations are set against a lovely backdrop and enhanced by detailed touches, little tributes to M\u00e9xico\u2019s history and culture. And the sky deck\u2014which features a pool, bar, and lounge\u2014boasts the best views in the village.<\/p>\n

This Could Be Heaven<\/strong>
\nNo, no, we have not forgotten. No trip to Todos Santos would be complete without the requisite visit to Hotel California<\/a> (www.hotelcaliforniabaja.com). The landmark spot has a killer kitchen (retreat here for dinner and drinks) and an even better souvenir shop. The jury\u2019s out on whether this is the Hotel California, but there\u2019s no question it is a must-visit.<\/p>\n

Getting Here<\/strong>
\nLast year\u2019s G-20 summit didn\u2019t just usher in the arrival of this planet\u2019s most important leaders; it also ushered in the most meaningful upgrade to the state\u2019s infrastructure in years, seriously improving the highways and significantly cutting the travel time from Los Cabos to Todos Santos. If making the trip, you could hop a bus north, but renting a car is frankly a lot more fun. Fantastic Pacific-side beaches dot the highway; there\u2019s little-known Playa Desaladora about 10 miles north of Cabo, which is one of the best spots for whale watching, and the surfers-favored Cerritos Beach. Plus, there are several spots where you can stop for small doses of culture. We like the roadside Blankets Factory, where you can watch as people weave designs ranging from modern to Mayan.<\/p>\n

Here, we\u2019ve collected a list of Los Cabos-area rental car agencies. Don\u2019t forget Mexican car insurance.<\/p>\n

Budget*: (800) 801-0365 from the United States, (800) 002- 8343 from Me\u0301xico, www.budgetloscabos.com Cactus Rent A Car*: (866) 225-9220 from the United States, (800) 821-7977 from M\u00e9xico, www.cactuscar.com. National Car Rental*: (877) 567-3572 from the United States, (800) 716-6625 from Me\u0301xico, www.nationalcar.com.mx Payless Car Rental*: (624) 143-5222 from Me\u0301xico, www.paylesscsl.com. *Participates in Los Cabos Magazine\u2019s prepaid voucher program. Go to www.loscabosguide.com\/discount.htm<\/a> for discounts of up to 50 percent.<\/p>\n\r\n\t\t