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The decor is casual yet chic, and the menu changes every month. Featuring fish, seafood, meat and poultry as a base for imaginative works of art, it represents different regions of Mexico. Being the origin of the restaurant’s name, chile is ubiquitous, forming an essential ingredient of every dish.
Not to worry, however. There are many different varieties of chiles and, prepared properly, they are unlikely to set your mouth on fire. On the contrary, they will turn any plate into an ultimate palate pleaser.
While the chef keeps humming in the open kitchen, the manager takes care of the dining room, greeting, seating, and recommending. Being also a wine lover, he will suggest a vintage that perfectly pairs with your foodtrying to do it yourself might get complicated, given the impressive list of 176 brands.
The month of my visit the bill of fare included fabulous sea scallops with sesame seeds and peanut crust set upon a creamy guacamole with sugar cane honey and chile ancho vinaigretteit was just as utterly pleasing to the palate as it is to the ear. Other toothsome starters were shrimp soup with barley and coconut milk, and octopus devil’s style.
The rightfully recommended catch of the day a succulent sea bass fillet flecked with tamarind and fig, comes in the company of scrumptious couscous with eggplant, tomato and basil.
Another gem among the main courses is the marinated flank steak in chile cascabel, with a sauce of chile ancho and pumpkin seeds, set upon navy beans and roasted garlic purée.
The signature dish at El Chilar is Tlayuda Oaxaqueñaa large crispy tortilla smothered with refried beans and covered with flank steak, cabbage, cheese and salsatypical in the south of Mexico but almost impossible to find in Los Cabos. Try it, as it may be your only chance until your trip to Oaxaca.
For dessert, there’s key lime pie, chocolate cake and an assorted selection of Haagen-Dazs ice cream.
The portions may strike somebody as modest, but the quality is high. The chef loads the menu with fresh, organic and local ingredients, incorporating at the same time regional fixings from all over Mexico. “Creating dishes that respect the traditions and the roots, while exploring the modernism” is the mantra at El Chilar.
Prices are as remarkable as the service, with entrees from $16 to $25 U.S. and wine by the glass for less than $5. Reservations are necessary, as this rustic spot has become so popular with the local gringo community, that it packs full house most nights of the week.
Offering their patrons not only food but most of all an unforgettable dining experience, the owners take Mexican food beyond “taquitos” and the aqua vitae far beyond BYOB.
With the capacity for 100 and an intimate wine and tequila bar next door, this spot has long become a jewel on San Jose’s dining scene. Open from Monday to Saturday from 4 p.m. to 10 p.m. For reservations, call (624) 142-2544. Located on Benito Juárez, on the corner of Morelos, near Telmex. Only cash is accepted.Anna Urbanik
El Chilar Restaurant
Benito Juarez #1490 and Morelos near Telmex
San Jose del Cabo, Los Cabos, Baja California Sur, Mexico
Phone: 142-2544
Open Monday through Saturday, 3pm10pm for dinner
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