LOS CABOS SHOPPING GUIDE

Shopping in Los Cabos...Hidden Treasures Abound
by Sabrina Lear

All kinds of people find their way to Los Cabos. Some by accident, others decidedly on purpose. Like other highly desirable places around the globe, most of the people who live, laugh and work here came from somewhere else. It's no surprise to learn that much of what makes this place magical is the sum of many dreamers, many visions and a lot of entrepreneurial spirit. It was only a few short years ago that visitors spent only a fraction of their vacation time shopping-there simply wasn't much out there to buy! Browsing was not much more than an hour's worth of uninspired trinket markets on a dusty street or two. It took risktakers like Sebastian Romo, Kaki Bassi, Margarita Partridge, Carlos Riva Palacios, Pepita Nelson, Paulina Gutierrez and others to see the future and take a gamble. Today, we have enough shopping to satisfy anyone with a fistful of dinero; and there's a new marina–front mega mall, Puerto Paraiso, scheduled to open in 2001. Romo's glass factory sizzles with thirty maestros; Bassi's opening her third gallery; Margarita and Pepita design and manufacture fine clothing; Carlos has a retail souvenir empire (Peer, Poco Loco & Mussfeldt Designs) and Paulina's design service keeps artesans and scads of employees going from dawn 'til dusk. These are just a few of the many men and women who have made Los Cabos what it is today. Galleries, boutiques, jewelry and clothing stores and interior design studios are flourishing with more and more thoughtful and creative endeavors opening their doors every month.

Cabo San Lucas

So what happens when a two-week holiday turns into a ten-year love affair? The answer is Magic of the Moon. In early 1991, Ron and Pepita Nelson visited Cabo San Lucas and liked it so much that they returned to California, quit their jobs, sold their house and moved to San Lucas lock, stock and barrel. Not entirely sure what they were going to do, Pepita went out looking to start a business. At that time there wasn't a whole lot of anything, especially lingerie, and the idea for Magic of the Moon was born. The first year was a little slow so Pepita started sewing beads onto bustiers; an immediate hit. As the shop became better known, she expanded into casual wear but could not find the quality her customers wanted at the price they wanted to pay, so she started designing her own creations. Sewing since the age of twelve, her first Magic creation was the Cha Cha blouse and a flowing matching skirt, a flattering design that looked great on just about any figure. Ten years later, Magic of the Moon not only has its own Cabo San Lucas-based factory with ten employees, they've expanded their store to over three times the original size. Looking back over the years Pepita says it was a blessing in disguise that she was forced into establishing her own factory in 1998. She now has control over every aspect of the business and has created ten great jobs along the way. Magic of the Moon, a landmark on Hidalgo, gets better with each passing year. With husband's help, and her right hand and manager, Geraldine, Pepita creates clothes made in Cabo the old fashioned way, one at a time. Her designs, most in easy care rayon, are feminine, sexy, and romantic; with complementing fashions for children and men. Any woman looking for something deliciously sexy, like her homage to Versace, has got to stop in. One of the reasons Pepita's styles are so popular and her seamstresses are so busy is because she designs for everyone, in sizes extra small to 4x. She features over 100 designs-available off the rack and as custom orders from a stock of over 600 beautiful fabrics-which can be ready in just three days or less. A dynamic redhead with oodles of cascading curls, Pepita loves color and sensual fabrics, both of which are at the heart of the Magic line. Accessories, coordinating designer earrings, hair scrunchies and the best selection of lingerie in town make shopping a breeze. Visit Magic of the Moon when you arrive and you'll take a wearable, one of a kind Cabo memory home with you.

If you were around Cabo San Lucas on Thanksgiving Day in 1974, you might remember back when Margarita Partridge blew in from Philadelphia, PA in her yellow Gremlin. Setting up camp at Santa Maria Bay, the former Peace Corps member and social worker started her career running errands, then worked for Alfonso Fisher at his restaurant and trailer park (now Marina Sol) before getting into the fashion business with designer Dean Best in 1977. Originally called Boutique Roberto, Margarita's Cotton Club/Calypso, on Lazaro Cardenas in the Aramburo Plaza, has been one of the top places to shop for resortwear and swimsuits in Cabo San Lucas since 1989. With the largest and most complete selection of quality ladies swimwear to fit any budget or body, this spacious shop has enough variety to keep you in the dressing room for longer than you'd imagine. Women interested in a great fit will be pleased to discover that half of the swimwear floor space displays mix and match separates. Cotton Club also specializes in cotton dresses and coordinates perfect for both Los Cabos and summers back home. Soon, Margarita will move Cotton Club to the new Puerto Paraiso mall. Several years ago, she opened another impressive boutique called Tropica, at Plaza del Sol on Boulevard Marina. She is also the force behind the Cabo San Lucas Boutique, also in Plaza del Sol. One of Cabo's classiest resort wear shops for men and women, with many Mexican and international de-signers, Tropica specializes in breathable natural fibers and custom designs. With Mariana and Blanca Burgoin, the makers of Tropica fashions (formerly known as Roberto de Baja) have been creating resort wear for almost thirty years. Tropica features over fifty designs of dresses and separates, available in as little as 24 hours. Men will find a great selection of tropical rayon and natural Mexican cotton shirts in sizes s to xxxl, with a good range of shorts, pants, boxers and hats in both Tropica and other lines. The shop also carries swimwear, original accessories, and an eclectic selection of gifts which include over 30 Mexican artesans and the prestigious Lunatica contemporary gift collection. Margarita is extremely committed to the local Humane Society (as close to the S.P.C.A. as we have in these parts) and Tropica also acts as the Humane Society Official Store in Cabo San Lucas. All proceeds from the sale of T-shirts, caps and other items go to support the animal shelter.

With true Texan tenacity, Kaki Bassi has spent 16 years as the driving force behind the Cabo San Lucas art scene. After a short vacation in 1984, convinced that Cabo San Lucas was the place for her, she returned to Houston, bought a 32-foot Airstream and a Ford pick-up truck and drove solo down the Baja peninsula. It didn't matter that she's never driven a truck before or set foot in a trailer, the lanky blonde liked what she saw and pursued her dream. She spent the first two years at the Vagabundos trailer park painting outside under a palapa and gathered the few artistic souls in town together for libations at Señor Sushi's (now Magnolias). Eventually, she built her studio home retreat in Brisas del Pacifico, where she lives today. In the late-1980s she organized Southern Baja's first, all-women show at the Galeria Carlos Olachea in La Paz, attracting 35 artists, and hasn't looked back. Her tireless efforts to promote arts and crafts in the Cape region led her to organize an annual arts and crafts festival called Splash, now in its seventh year. Her flagship signature gallery, Galeria de Kaki Bassi, has 3,000 square feet of hanging space at Morelos and Alikan in Cabo San Lucas, eight blocks up from the main light at Lazaro Cardenas. One of the most prestigious galleries in Baja California Sur, on exhibit is original fine art by Kaki and local and mainland Mexican artists, plus prints, posters and sculptures. After earning her M.F.A. from Texas A & M, Bassi painted and exhibited in Europe and taught briefly at Homerton College in Cambridge, England. Her work hangs in Canada, the USA and Mexico, with seven pieces in the Mexican government's permanent collection. Active in promoting Mexican artists, Bassi also exhibits Portilla (acrylics), Riva Palacio (acrylics), Eslinger (watercolors), Perrot Garza (watercolors), Najera (oils and mixed media) and Nolasco, who's latest show was a sellout. Her own well-known works in watercolor, acrylic and mixed media are also on display. Known predominantly for her masterful interpretations of the rupestrian art of Baja's Sierra San Francisco near San Ignacio, Bassi also paints colorful scenes of Mexican life and conducts twice weekly art classes in figure drawing, watercolor and pastel. In addition to her large format work, she's now interpreting her rupestrian art on papel amate, handmade bark paper made from wild fig trees. In 1999, Bassi opened a second gallery in San José del Cabo, at #1-A Calle Obregon, behind the plaza; and she's set to open her third in the new Puerto Paraiso mall. Her San Lucas gallery features a modern, custom frame shop using acid free materials and an extensive range of art supplies.

Among the more recent arrivals lending color and creativity to Cabo San Lucas is artist Chris MacClure. In 1997, MacClure and Marilyn Hurst unveiled the Golden Cactus Gallery on the second floor of the corner of Guerrero and Madero streets, one block off Boulevard Marina. Chris has always taken an active role in the communities he has lived and worked in. "I've always en-joyed sharing with other artists at the studio and I think it's very important. The Golden Cactus shows the work of eight artists, all reflecting the Mexican culture and environment through different styles and mediums. The combined efforts involved make a collaborative group effort very satisfying. We ride each other's updrafts and inspire one another through the creative energy that develops. To be an artist is to be a pioneer." This sense of inner pioneer spirit has taken Chris to places and studios around the world for more than 30 years. His work has been exhibited across Canada, the USA, Hong Kong and, more recently, Mexico; and his paintings can be found in numerous corporate and private collections ranging from Bill Clinton to Boris Yeltsin, Jay Leno, John Travolta, PepsiCo and Ford Motor Co. Two of the internationally known artists at the Golden Cactus gallery are Brent Heighton and John Einerssen. Brent is one of the finest impressionists in North America today and has been published internationally for many years. While not painting in Mexico, he can be found at the New York Art Expo or at Monet's Garden in Giverny, France. Einerssen's seascapes are distinguished by a force and beauty which reflects the artist's own powerful vision, entailing a philosophical and spiritual approach to his art. Einerssen began painting at the age of 21 and quickly became a flourishing, self-sustaining artist, capturing the attention of corporate and private collectors. Daily, people from all over the world discover the Golden Cactus Gallery and find a painting or a sculpture that captures their connection to the beauty of the Baja peninsula. Chris sees an exciting future for the arts in Cabo San Lucas and is very active in presenting more off-site exhibitions. This past season saw very successful shows at the Hacienda Del Mar resort, the Cabo San Lucas Country Club and the Westin Regina Grand Salon. The next time you're in Cabo San Lucas, take a minute to drop by Golden Cactus, which also features two dynamic Mexican painters based in the area-Fernando Tames' brilliant abstract expressionism is thought-provoking and technically dead on; and Enrique Ortega's finely executed watercolors are also a must see, rich with architectural detail and the subtle essence of colonial Mexico, seen through the eyes of a young man with an old soul.

Christa Ehrenberg's Necri, on Marina Boulevard, was one of the original fine arts and crafts shops, opening in 1988. Her great eye for quality and beauty has given shoppers unique gifts, many the perfect size for tucking in a suitcase for that special someone back home. Necri has a lovely collection of exclusive pewter pieces with a recent addition, Safari, a line etched with wild animal patterns that's both unusual and contemporary. Also new this season is a gorgeous collection of functional and decorative ceramic pieces from Santa Rosa, Guanajuato. And, of course, there's Christa's extensive stock of fine Talavera, named after a Spanish city with similar pottery. Mexican Talavera originated in Puebla, a colonial city with strong and enduring Spanish traditions. Talavera designs show influences of Spanish, Arabic, Asian and Mexican indigenous cultures. The painted Talavera designs and glaze are applied between two firings. You'll know fine Talavera pottery by its higher price, intricate detail and quality workmanship. The Talavera style is also finely produced in the state of Guanajuato, particularly in Dolores Hidalgo, with a strong Moorish influence in design and color. Another shop, Arcelia Arocha's Mama Eli's-located on Avenida Cabo San Lucas, near Mi Casa-has been selling fine curios, furniture, pewter, sculpture, dinnerware and ceramics since 1980. Like Necri this is a "don't miss" on the list for shopping treasures in Cabo San Lucas. Other galleries and arts and crafts shops of note are ADD in Plaza Real, Cartes and Sergio Bustamente in Plaza Bonita, El Callejon on Guerrero and Nupalli, across from Plaza Aramburo on Zaragoza.

Silver is abundant in all Mexican resort towns and souvenir shops commonly have silver along with many other crafts. It's usually genuine, but save those costly purchases for a specialty store with a good reputation. Joyeria Mexico Lindo is a reliable source with four stores in Los Cabos including a jewelry factory and a wide range of gemstones and Mexican fire opals. They'll custom make anything in silver or gold in 24 hours. In Cabo San Lucas you'll find them in Plaza Nautica and Plaza del Sol and their jewelry factory is located on Madero, just off Boulevard Marina. Pardo Jewelers, on Boulevard Marina across from Plaza Las Glorias, specializes in Mexican fire opals and fine gems set in gold. Fire opals are mined predominantly in Magdalena, Jalisco, where there are over 100 mines. These unusual stones, found only in Mexico and Australia, have an enticing range of shades and colors. Pardo's designs are creative and finely crafted and include the rare Black or Jet opal.

On Hidalgo, at the corner of the Town Square is a new store in town, Perlas de La Paz, selling Mexican oyster farmed pearls. It's an irony that not far away in La Paz the pearl industry was once what lured conquistadors and pirates to these shores. An alternative to Chinese freshwater pearls, Mexican cultured pearls are more affordable than the South Sea variety and very beautiful. The pearl farm, which owns and supplies three stores, is located across the Sea of Cortez in Guaymas, Sonora. The store clerks at the San Lucas branch are well trained in all aspects of pearl farming and will tell you all about the process as you browse. You'll see sample pearls, still in the oyster, which are made by inserting a small round plastic ball to start the formation of the pearl. Normally, pearls are formed over years and years when grains of sand, combined with the natural secretions from the oyster, harden and become a pearl. The same natural process occurs with the plastic ball and the oyster takes about two years to produce a round pearl 7 to 10 mm in size. Full or half pearls are both harvested without killing or damaging the oyster. Colors range from light gray, gold, champagne, rose and green to jet black and rainbow. Pearl colors are affected by the time of year the pearls are harvested. During the cold winter months, water and bottom sediments are pushed to the surface, causing lighter pearls with blue, pink and green hues. The Perlas de Guaymas farm has produced tens of thousands of half pearls as well as thousands of full pearls. Prices range from $14 USD for half pearls to much higher for pearls of the finest quality. Pearls are sold loose and may be set in silver or gold as necklaces, rings, earrings, bracelets and pendants. Perlas de la Paz is a lovely shop and an ex-cellent educational experience.

Eleven years ago, local entrepreneur Sebastian Romo opened what was, for many years, the only hand-blown glass factory on the Baja Peninsula. Vitrofusion, located out on the bypass road to Todos Santos, was originally started to meet the demands of local hotels and restaurants. For many years Romo had to bring his maestros from the mainland, now the technique is firmly entrenched here in Cabo San Lucas. Today the foundry employs over 30 artisans who produce close to 500 one-of-a-kind pieces daily. Using recycled, lead-free glass, the maestros create custom orders for hotels, restaurants and retail shops as well as original pieces for groups and individual buyers. Once inside, you'll be impressed with the many creative examples of what the foundry is capable of producing, including a glass aggregate inset on the showroom floor. For the past three years Romo and his partner, Tim Westerdahl, have been expanding the facility to include a pewter foundry and a metal shop and have also increased the studio and showroom space.

While you will see many examples of Mexican blown glass in the shops of Los Cabos, a trip to the Glass Factory provides a first hand glimpse into the centuries-old art of glass blowing. Glassmaking was accidentally discovered by potters around 3000 B.C. and the technique of glass blowing was invented around 100 B.C. The first glass made in North America was in Mexico in 1535 by artisans brought by the Spanish from Europe. Although these original glassworks were short lived, glassblowing was reintroduced into Mexico hundreds of years ago and flourished, due largely to the simplicity of the ingredients and the ingenuity of the Mexican arts and crafts tradition. Today Mexico is well known for affordable, rustic handblown drinking glasses, many of them characterized by a cobalt blue band at the rim. To create different colors, various metal oxides are added. Small amounts of iron and sulfur will achieve amber and brown effects while green and aqua glasses require iron. Light blues need copper, while dark blues contain very small quantities of cobalt. Pastel colors can also be achieved by adding crushed glass of the desired color. Regular tours to the Glass Factory with a bilingual guide are available or you may take a taxi and run on your own time. The best time to go is between 6 am and 2 pm, while the place is humming with activity. Watching the artisans at their craft is mesmerizing, the technique fascinating. The well stocked shop features functional items like glasses, plates and pitchers as well as decorative items. When buying more porous hand-blown glass for daily use, it's a good idea to buy extras; they chip easily. Custom orders can take time depending upon how busy the factory is.

Another locally produced glass art that's beautifully crafted is the etched glass at The Baja Wilderness Company. You'll see their functional and fine art pieces around town. They're best known for stylish cave art designs etched into mugs and glasses. They also produce fine art pieces and other functional items. You may drop by the studio, which is located at 16 de Septiembre and Obregon, three blocks behind the Pemex gas station on Lazaro Cardenas in Cabo San Lucas.

SAN JOSÉ DEL CABO

A few days into the New Year of 1994, Dennis Wentworth Porter drove into San José del Cabo, fresh from a sell-out show at his mountain top studio in Jerome, near Sedona, Arizona. He intended to hang out and paint for a month or two and move on; he's still here. This pioneer artist's gallery is located in San José's historic district, the hot end of town for galleries, boutiques and restaurants. Porter worked out of his Costa Azul studio for several years before finding a turn-of-the-century building and setting up his signature gallery downtown. "I wanted a space away from the tourist hype where people could relax and take time to enjoy my art," recalls Porter. The emphasis was on creating a separate space for each canvas and as a result his gallery has a museum quality, with no more than a dozen large format oils and several jewel-toned pastels on the walls at any given time. Soft jazz and optimum lighting complement his powerful, impressionistic work making #20 Alvaro Obregon a hot stop on many collectors' itineraries. A painter who enjoys complicated compositions and uses brushstrokes and pigments as design elements, Porter's art is also about the way light strikes life on canvas. "For me, art is more about how I feel about the light and subjects of my paintings than the subjects themselves. If the light's not right, it doesn't attract my attention." To paint primarily representational subjects as well as abstract compositions, Porter uses a complex palette. Like the early impressionists, he's fascinated by the physics of color theory. Modest about his technical expertise and accomplished style, Porter credits his professors, notably Ray Strong and Robert Frame, for a sound background in theory, composition and design. He travels to the mainland frequently, exploring new ground on each journey, with each series a distinctive visual narrative of the many faces of Mexico. Every September through October Porter beats the heat and hits the road, wherever that may lead. His half dozen highly coveted pieces from summer travels may be from the Colorado Rockies or from Cezanne's Provence. Having his work Internationally collected, Porter says that regardless of whether he has stateside gallery representation, collectors still find him and manage to discover San José at the same time. "The hospitality of the people here has made it possible for me to live a very full life and meet art lovers from all over the planet." A painter's painter, Porter taught art for ten years after graduating from the Santa Barbara Art Institute at Brooks in 1974. PBS featured him in two productions in the early eighties while he was teaching and painting in the Pacific Northwest. Over the past 25 years he's had studios from Alaska to Italy. His art is hung in heavyweight galleries and his work has gone into collections all over the world. To all of that he says, "When you look at my art you shouldn't care what I've done or where I've been, only where I'm at right now and whether it grabs you or not."

The success of Wentworth Porter Fine Art and Flor Canela, a lovely aromatherapy and gift boutique also on Obregon, has drawn other galleries and shops to this street and the surrounding historic area. Susana Bueno, owner of Flor Canela, opened a second store behind the square in 1999 featuring the jewelry of Daniel Espinoza. With shops in several parts of the world, Espinoza has made quite a name for himself designing contemporary jewelry, and other functional items in "Ice Silver". His designs are streamlined and very stylish, using a brushed silver that is more refined and toned down compared to the common reflective silver jewelry. Susana believed in his products and wanted to expose his art to the Los Cabos community. The response has been very positive. Bueno came to San Jose del Cabo at the age of ten and has had an interesting life with many careers for someone just 26-years-old. She's been in retail, real estate, administration, property management and somehow runs two stores while still managing to assist her husband, an architect, with his busy companies.

Kaki Bassi has been in the 'hood since 1999; and the year 2000 has seen both Galeria El Encanto and Pez Gordo Contemporary Art open their doors. Down on the main square, Veryka, next to Casa Natalia, is definitely one of the most interesting and eclectic fine arts and crafts galleries in Los Cabos; and the very new Abolengo, a sophisticated and beautiful gallery/ café, both merit a second look. On Zaragoza, Paulina Gutierrez's, Casa Paulina has a wide range of Mexican furniture and home accessories in-cluding custom hand forged metal tables, screens, lamps and gorgeous imported fabrics. With full design services, guided mainland-shopping trips, installation and shipping, she's also a find for small gifts and table linens. Casa Paulina, along with Cynthia Cano's Adobe, were the forerunners in a now crowded field. These two dynamic women still set the standard for fine Mexican interiors in San José del Cabo. Other shops and artists to note are ADD across from the church; Asiantique on Obregon; Ofelia's Silver on Hidalgo; and the work of metal sculptor Julian Garcia, available through Casa Paulina, who's large bronze manta ray at the oceanfront Las Mananitas' center fountain adds an extra touch of soul and grace.

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