Restaurant review by: David Mandich (865 words) - 09 December 2003
Any traveler who discovered the French Riviera Bakery in San Jose del Cabo last year and were delighted over their delicious pastries, breads, chocolates, and crepes will be doubly pleased to know of the 2003 opening of their new full-blown French Mediterranean style restaurant located in the equally new Plaza del Rey just outside of Cabo San Lucas. (Eastbound side of the four-lane highway at Km. 6.3. leading from Cabo San Lucas to San Jose del Cabo.) This new restaurant raises the bar of Haute Cuisine in Cabo San Lucas another five notches.
The famous French Riviera coast is traditionally known to include the towns of St. Tropez, Cannes and the principality of Monaco. You could have convinced me after dining at this restaurant that the French Riviera includes Cabo San Lucas as well.
On the afternoon cousin Josephina and I visited, the sun, sea breezes, view of Lands End, and the understated décor (which included grand, comfy, wicker chairs stationed at the tables,) all combined to suggest the ambience of a French Colonial dining room, in the south of France. Or Cabo San Lucas, Mexico
Once seated, the tour de France continues on the menu and includes traditional elegant delicacies such as: Duck Liver Escalope de Fois Gras, Truffle Vinaigrette, Red Claw Crayfish Soup, Fricassee of Asparagus and Morel Mushrooms, Roasted Rack of Lamb Provencal, Fondues, Marinades, Quails Comfit, and Seafood in Champagne Sauce. I mumbled hungrily: “At last! I’ve found my way to Marseille!” … as my eyes consumed the menu.
The kitchen is overseen and worked in person by a master chef who formerly worked at the restaurant at Esperanza. Here the potato puree’ is not just smashed potatoes but blended and green with fresh basil. T’was seemingly surreal, slightly Dr. Seuss, but not as scary as “green eggs and ham”; more of a French “Cat in the Hat” style of potatoes. (Excuse me … for I fear, I’ve lost my sense of simile here.) “But trust me,” said our waiter with a grin, “you’ve never had mashed potatoes like these, so lets begin.” (Sorry, Seuss old Boy … but they were green!)
For lunch I took pleasure in an appetizer of Seaweed Salad with Sautéed Shrimp, mixed delicately with lemon vinaigrette. It was refreshingly different, the shrimp being seasoned and grilled sans shell, and the vinaigrette perfectly balanced. Cousin Josephina, opted for the Ceviche, consisting of a bowl of minced sea bass, and shrimp, tart with lime and ginger. She was surprised at the large quantity presented; the freshness was as she expected and the taste, just short of sublime. But being French, she couldn’t admit she was enjoying it here in Mexico.
My cousin Josephina, an eternally complaining, arrogant French Dip, couldn’t find fault with her selection of the Catch of the Day either. She gorged herself on a fresh Sea Bass filet, broiled, buttered, wined and garlic’d to perfection. It arrived attractively garnished along with mashed potatoes in the aforementioned basil sauce. The basil mashed potatoes were a delightful tasty variation on a basic side dish. And it all proved to her that French Cuisine can exist outside of France; right here in Cabo San Lucas.
The menu description of my main course entrée was a gross disservice to the almost transcendent quality of the dish. The menu read: “Shrimp Pot, Baby Spinach, Mushrooms - $180.00 pesos.” Who other than a Chinese restaurant writer would understand a description like that? The dish came in a shallow bowl with large shrimp and mushrooms covered with a brown sauce all atop sautéed spinach. I was not impressed … until I tasted the sauce made from a lobster reduction, cream, wine and spices. For after merely two bites, I jumped up and salsa’d around the table. By myself. Poor Josephina (who doesn’t Latin dance) was not only embarrassed by my performance but is now convinced I am truly insane. Believe me, the sauce was magnificent!
For dessert Josephina ordered … (and again the menu failed to do the dish justice) a dessert so unique and literally incomprehensible that I will present you with both the English (translated from the French) and the Spanish menu (also translated) versions of the offering: In Spanish – ‘Pastel de Helado de Vanilla y Fresas Meringue, Cereza al Licor.’ And in English – ‘Vacherin with Vanilla Ice Cream and Strawberries, Roasted Cherries.’
Let me explain: Imagine a scoop of home-made creamy Vanilla sorbet crowned with a roasted cherry on a flaky pastry wafer, with six oven toasted petals of meringue decorating the sides of the sorbet, further decorated with slices of fresh strawberry garnish, all centered on a plate still further decorated with colored fruit liquor salsa designs.
I think anyone would want to order another round of this one as the first dish I guarantee, will put an end to any inhibitions one may have about overindulging. Josephina made that dessert disappear faster than David Copperfield vanishes a rabbit.
My dessert was equally worth raving about. I ordered: “Crispy Praline, Chocolate Mousse Cake, Espresso Cream.” No, not four items, (that menu again), but rather a small (but potent) slice of Chocolate Mousse Cake in a Crispy Praline shell sailing in a sea of Espresso Cream sauce. If heaven doesn’t have this dish, I don’t want to go there. Need I say more? Price: Expensive.
Restaurant review by: David Mandich (865 words) - 09 December 2003
Visit our website: French Riviera Restaurant & Bakery
