David Mandich
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| Don Emiliano – “Slow Food” in San Jose By: David Mandich Executive Chef Doña Margarita Salinas trained at the American Culinary Institute, the Cordon Bleu and other places in Europe and Mexico. Former school teacher, food writer, and Gourmet Ice Cream factory owner, she is also the Chef for the Mexican Ministry of Agriculture traveling often giving Mexican cooking demonstrations at food festivals in Japan, Canada, Europe, the USA and China. Featured in books on great chefs of the world she is a consummate ambassador for Mexican cuisine and traditions. And a member of the “Slow Food” Movement. “Slow Food” is an international movement founded in Milan Italy in 1986 as a reaction to the fast food industry and the fast life in general. Over 80,000 restaurants, chefs, small regional food farms, suppliers etc. are members in scores of countries. The association promotes appreciation of the culinary arts, preservation and promotion of regional foods and fine dining with family and friends in an unhurried atmosphere. Its logo is a snail and you will often see it displayed on “Slow Food” member restaurant menus and signs. There are several “Slow Food” restaurants in Mexico. This is the first in Los Cabos. A delicious “Slow Food” entrée at Don Emiliano’s is the Filete Eredira. “A Chihuahua beef tenderloin bathed with scented ten chile oil and garlic flakes” 90% of Chihuahua’s best beef is reputedly exported to fine US restaurant houses and you will see why as it easily compares with the best in the US. The filet comes served on a bed of blue masa (cornmeal) stuffed with seven different varieties of mushrooms. The delicate ten chile oil takes hours to prepare. Slow Food. Some foods can take up to four days to prepare! Take your time here. Slow down. Appreciate and enjoy. A specialty dish is the Chile Relleno San Jose – A large very mild Ancho Chile (dark red, toasted nut flavor) stuffed with medium shrimp in an angelic goat cheese and wine white sauce. You will remember this dish. Lamb Mixiote is from a pre-Hispanic recipe. Lamb stew meat is steeped in a light salsa verde and served in a Maguey skin (Tequila plant) paper wrapping which comes from a small village in Mexico. Hearty and robust - fit for an Aztec warrior. The Filete Nicolasa is a wonderful tenderloin of Chihuahua beef prepared with a seared crust of dried chiles, leaving the meat tender and juicy on the inside. It comes centered on a platter of red hibiscus flower sauce garnished with apple slices sautéed in tequila caramel. Trust me, this dish will destroy all your vegetarian fantasies. Mexican cuisine is considered by some food experts as one of the three only real cuisines in the world. The other two true cuisines being Chinese and French. Mexico brought the world the tomato, the chile, many citruses, vanilla, and chocolate. Forget about tacos. They represent Mexican food about as much as the hot dog represents American. There are 49 different varieties of mushrooms used for cooking in Mexico, and an almost equal amount of chiles ranging from sweet and mild to the near deadly guaranteed to burn you twice. True Mexican cuisine can range from the simple such as dishes based on beans, tortillas and corn meal to complex creations using many ingredients and processes equal in sophistication to European Haute Cuisine or any of China’s best dishes. Try the Espiral con Mole de Pollo de Pistache – a delicious dish featuring Chicken crepes in a tantalizing pistachio mole. Seafood offerings include Atun Encendido - a charcoal seared tuna covered with a light vinaigrette and a favorite - Camarones la Tequilera. Large prawns sautéed in a creamy tequila enhanced white sauce. Other Alta Gastronomias Mexicanas include unique seafood appertivos such as shaved pulpo (octopus) slices, a Ceviche duo in separate mild red and green salsas, Fideo seco Luz Catalina - a regional dry soup, and desserts such as a cold apple poached in wine filled with their own green apple ice cream. The mango fruit slices with toasted pecans and secret salsa was like magic, literally floating me away. I was craving for more the next day. The restaurant features a bar, partly or fully uncovered starlight outdoor dining on candlelit cloth covered tables with comfy art deco rattan chairs perfect for long dinner conversations. You can expect excellent service by well trained, attentive waiters. Sophisticated paintings for sale by regional artists grace the walls. And musicians perform several nights a week. The quality at many restaurants often ends at the bathroom door but not here. The marble and tile bathrooms graced with real flowers and cloth hand towels serve to remind the diner that all is as it should be at Don Emiliano. Prices range from 20 to 36 dollars for main courses, 7 to 20 dollars for appetizers, soups and salads. Parties up to 150 persons can be accommodated. Doña Margarita Salinas and her wine steward/business manager son Angel, are wonderful hosts and enthusiastic to share their love and knowledge of Mexican cuisine with you. Don Emiliano, where art, tradition and food come together. Located Blvd. Mijares 27, Col. Centro San Jose. Reservations: (624) 14 20266 Review by: David Mandich - May 8, 2005 |
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Cabo San Lucas, Baja California Sur, Mexico - Last Revision - 21 June 2005