Review by David Mandich - 570 words - October 15, 2003

I had the sublime pleasure of visiting a little Cabo San Lucas marina waterfront dining spot called Café Dorian recently. The menu was a delightful change from the normal fare found in the local restaurants. The entrées at this little place reflect the best of Asian cuisine and Western dishes melded into something more delicious than the sum of its sauces and sautées.

For instance, a Thai ‘Satay Prawn Brochette’ consisted of six fat, fresh filleted and shelled prawns charcoal grilled on skewers, lightly butter basted, served on a bed of greens with a side of peanut butter sauce for dipping. The sauce, slightly tart with limón and vinegar, was the perfect accompaniment for the prawns. It brought back memories of stories about exotic Thailand. A place I’ve yet to visit.

Another entrée, a ‘Seafood Pasta’ dish was served with a variety of local bounty including scallops, prawns, and calamari, all swimming in a mild green coconut curry over fresh pasta. It was an exciting change from the same old, same old, traditional tomato or Alfredo sauce one normally expects on a seafood pasta dish.

My fellow traveler enjoyed the chicken breasts stuffed with shrimps and scallops and smothered in a thick, creamy curry sauce. The sauce was thick and textured with tiny slivers of veggies, ginger, and bits of this and that, all of which add up to what makes a good curry; and a work of art. If I’d made it, I’d be proud.

Our waiters were there when we needed them but gone when we wanted to be alone to enjoy the wonderful ambience found at our table overlooking the water. The view of the boats tied up at the docks, the people strolling, and the street urchins hustling trinkets to dinner patrons was almost enchanting. Almost. For when a third rascal deposited five painted clay animals with bobbing heads on the table in front of my wife, I raised my hand and the waiter had him gone in a second. Only Paradise is Paradise. But Cabo San Lucas comes close.

This restaurant has many interesting adventures on the menu to experience including extreme cuisine such as ‘Drunken Shrimp’ or ‘Camarones Flambéed in Tequila’. I wanna, I wanna. I heard myself repeating with glazed eyes to my worried wife as I re-read the menu item again and again. I really wanted to try this one. But after a waiter set his frilly shirtsleeve on fire doing this number at my table at a restaurant in Portland Oregon years ago, I’ve never had the courage to experience immolation again. Try it and tell me what you think.

We had dessert. Oh boy, we had dessert! Indulge in the classic chocolate mousse. It was more dark, intense, serious chocolate than I could gorge on. It was sort of like the time I snatched Dad’s private one-pound stash of See’s chocolates, and thought I was going to die after eating them all in a waaay-too-short-a-period-of-time, one blissful adolescent evening. My diet doctor should beat me, I never learn.

My date nearly drowned in a chalice of Tiramisu. I told her not to dive in. But I know that when she came out of her dessert induced coma, she will be smiling and mine forever. A yummy Lemon Cheesecake and classic Flan completed the postres. Café Dorian is located on the Cabo San Lucas waterfront in the Plaza Bonita Mall. Price: Moderate.